PELRINAGE
Roma folklore informs us that shortly after Jesus’ Ascension Mary Jacobe and Mary Solome, accompanied by Mary Magdelaine and their uncle Joseph of Arimathea, set sail, or were cast adrift from Alexandria in Egypt and were carried by the winds and tides to the Carmargue coast of France near the Fortress of Oppidum Ra. The women were helped and cared for by a dark skinned Gypsy girl named Sarah. Sarah le Kali (Sarah the black) as she is now known. The women spent the rest of their lives spreading Catholicism in France. Over the years it has become a place of pilgrimage (pelrinage) for the Catholic gypsy people from throughout Europe and further afield and was renamed from Notre Dame de la Mer (Our Lady of the Sea) to Saintes Marie de la Mer in 1838.
Sarah le Kali has become the “Patron Saint” of all Gypsies, despite not being officially recognised or canonised by the Catholic Church. You would never think so given the number of Priests and Bishops that attend every year.
During the week’s celebrations two Mass are held in the church where the Saint’s relics and the effigy of Saint Sara are kept, the latter in the crypt under the high altar. The religious element of the week long festival starts when the casket containing the bones and relics of the Saints is lowered from the door high above the main altar. It concludes when they are returned in the same manner. Each mass is followed by a procession to the beach where the boat landed, the first honouring Sarah and the second the Saintes Maries. The effigies are carried on the shoulders of the Roma men followed by the devotees. The processions are accompanied by the Gardians, the Carmargue Cowboys, on their white horses. Whilst having no historic connection that I can find they certainly add something to the occasion.
Sarah le Kali’s procession is the more passionate of the two and throughout the pilgrims repeatedly declare “Viva Saint Sarah” and raise their arms to the sky.
When not “massing” and processing it’s holiday time for the Gitanes and the curious. A time to make and renew friendships, baptise babies and eat and drink to the wonderful sound of gypsy music in every square and open space. It’s a wonderful and uplifting festival that I commend to anyone with an interest in such events.
Viva Saint Sarah!
Manitas De Plata 1921-2014
Born Ricardo Baliardo in a Gypsy Caravan in Sète in the South of France he was later known as Manitas de Plata, “Little Fingers of Silver” for his extraordinary skill as a Flamenco Guitarist. Despite his fame, he was constantly criticised for not following the complex rhythmic rules of traditional flamenco. Picasso declared “he is of greater worth than I am” and then proceeded to draw on his guitar.
Out of respect for his “hero” he did not play in public for 10 years after the death of Django Reinhardt, the acclaimed king of gypsy guitarists. Following which and until a year before his death in 2014 he was a regular visitor to this festival where he played for his adoring followers.
I bought my first LP of Manitas in my 20’s. Meeting him at Saintes Maries in 2013 was a huge honour for me. It was his final visit and he passed away the following year.
I have included a recording of Manitas playing Soleil des Saintes-Maries, click on the link to play and enjoy his mastery of the guitar as you browse the images full screen.
RIP Manitas.
