Durga Puja
In Kokata, as the incessant rains of the monsoon subside and the depressive dark clouds make way for a brilliant blue sky, its Sarat, Autumn. Spirits are lifted and all thoughts are of the Durga Puja, West Bengal’s favourite Festival. It’s a new beginning as people buy new clothes, gifts of clothes and food are distributed to the poor whilst the better heeled buy yet more gold and jewellery in the latest styles for their ladies.
The epitome of strength. The Durga Puja marks her battle with the deceptive and powerful buffalo demon Mahishasura, and her emerging victorious. The power of good over evil.
Soon after the previous Durga Puja ended the talented sculptors (all named Mr Paul) and artisans of Kumatulli have been busy at work making the idols. As tradition dictates, they are created with river mud from the nearby Holy River Ganges, known here as the Hooghly River, the majority made on a bamboo frame and shaped with straw before the mud is applied. The final tableau, called a Seta, contains the ten armed Durga, her sons, the demon and Dawon the sacred lion, the Durga’s mount.
The Pandals and Tableaus are commissioned by corporations, neighbourhood groups, families and communities of all descriptions. Just a few years back the sex workers in the red light district were allowed their very own for the first time.
The festival begins with four days of private worship. The fifth day is one of much excitement and shouting as the porters drag and carry the idols from the workshops to the awaiting trucks, overseen by the stressed and anxious men (always men) charged with the responsibility of getting Maa Durga safely home. The sixth day known as Shasti, is the most significant.
With the Goddess installed four days of festive celebrations can commence when she will be treated like a living goddess. Food will be brought to her, priests will keep the flies from her as garlands of flowers are draped around her and flowers pile up around her feet. Incense pervades the air whilst the flame of the fire purifies the body and soul. All day and night devotees and the curious of all faiths come to pray, admire the beauty and soak in the atmosphere.
Durga Puja time every year sees Dhakis (drummers) from all over the Bengal countryside congregate at the Sealdah railway station in Kolkata. The station complex buzzes with activity and reverberates to the sound of drums as they wait to be approached by potential clients or await collection.
Many traditions have not changed for centuries. From the harvesting of the river mud to the immersion, when Maa Durga is given back to the Holy Ganges. The three main ones are;
Kola Bou The Banana Bride
On the seventh day a young banana plant tied with eight other plants is processed to the Ganges for a ritual with a priest, whilst standing in the water. Back on dry land it is wrapped in a new Sari and processed back where it will stand next to Ganesha.
Sindur Khela The Vermillion Ceremony
Sindur Khela symbolises the power of womanhood in protecting her husband and children from all evil when women pray that they will not become a widow.
Married Hindu women apply vermillion to the forehead and feet of the idol and feed her sweets after which they apply it to each other, on their faces, with much hilarity.
Immersion
Following the four days of public worship and adoration the idols are taken to specified ghats on the Hooghly River and lowered into the water. The largest are suspended between two boats and as the boats separate they slide into the river. Within minutes the spent idols are removed and piled on the river bank, such an ignominious end after the outflowing of devotion that proceeded.
Oh! Mother come again.
